If you're trying to figure out how to measure saddle seat sizes, you've probably realized that a half-inch difference can feel like a mile once you're actually in the stirrups. There's nothing worse than dropping a significant amount of money on a beautiful leather saddle only to find out you're either swimming in it or feeling like a stuffed sausage. It happens more often than you'd think, mostly because different brands have their own "vibe" when it comes to sizing, and English versus Western measurements are completely different animals.
Before you grab your tape measure and head to the barn, it's worth noting that the seat size is really about your comfort and balance. While the horse's fit is obviously the priority for their health, if the seat doesn't fit you, you won't be able to cue them properly. You'll be struggling just to stay in the right position. So, let's break down how to get an accurate number so you can ride without the constant distraction of a poor fit.
The basic tools you'll need
You don't need anything fancy here. A standard flexible fabric measuring tape—the kind used for sewing—is usually the best bet because it's easy to handle. However, a retractable metal one works too, as long as you're careful not to scratch the leather. It also helps to have a friend hold the other end, but if you're solo, you can usually manage just fine.
One thing people forget is that you should measure the saddle while it's sitting level. If it's perched awkwardly on a narrow saddle stand or sitting on the ground tilted forward, your angles might be off. Try to get it on a proper stand or even on your horse (if they're patient) to ensure it's sitting as it would during a ride.
Measuring an English saddle
When it comes to English saddles—whether it's a close contact, dressage, or all-purpose—the process is pretty standardized. You aren't measuring the actual leather surface you sit on; you're measuring the distance between two specific points.
First, look for the small metal nail or "button" on the side of the pommel. This is usually embossed with the brand's logo. This is your starting point. Hold the end of your tape measure right against the center of that nail.
Next, pull the tape back to the very center of the cantle. The cantle is the high back part of the seat. You want to measure to the topmost edge in the dead center. Now, here's the trick: don't let the tape measure follow the curve of the seat down into the "dip" and back up. You want a straight diagonal line through the air from the nail to the top of the cantle.
If you get a measurement like 17.5 inches, that's your seat size. English saddles usually come in half-inch increments. If you're measuring and it seems to fall on an odd number like 17.2, it's likely a 17-inch seat that has just stretched a bit or has a more generous curve.
Figuring out Western saddle sizes
If you're switching over to Western gear, don't use your English measurement. If you ride in a 17-inch English saddle, a 17-inch Western saddle will feel like a recliner—it'll be way too big. Western seats are measured differently because of the way the pommel and cantle are constructed.
For a Western saddle, you start at the back of the "swell" or the "fork." This is the wide part just below the horn. Place your tape measure there, right where the seat starts to slope down. Then, pull the tape straight back to the inside edge of the cantle.
Again, don't follow the contour of the seat. You're looking for the horizontal distance from the fork to the cantle. Western saddles are typically sized in full inches (14, 15, 16, etc.), though you'll occasionally find half-sizes. Generally, a Western seat is about two inches smaller than an English seat for the same person. So, if you're a 17.5 in English, you're likely a 15.5 or 16 in Western.
Why your leg length matters more than your weight
A common mistake when learning how to measure saddle seat requirements for yourself is focusing on weight. While your overall build matters, the real deciding factor is the length of your femur (your thigh bone).
If you have very long legs but a petite frame, you might actually need a larger seat size just to accommodate your thighs. If the seat is too small, your knees will hang over the front of the flaps, or your weight will be pushed too far back against the cantle, which is uncomfortable for both you and the horse.
A quick way to check your "human" measurement is the chair test. Sit in a flat-bottomed chair with your feet flat on the floor so your knees are at a 90-degree angle. Have someone measure from the very back of your butt (against the back of the chair) to the very front of your kneecap.
- If that measurement is up to 16.5 inches, you're usually a small (15-16" English).
- 16.5 to 18.5 inches usually puts you in a medium (16.5-17" English).
- 18.5 to 20 inches usually means a large (17.5" English).
- Over 20 inches usually requires an extra-large (18"+ English).
The "Four Finger" rule
Once you're actually sitting in the saddle, there's a classic rule of thumb (or rule of fingers) to see if you've got it right. When you're sitting in the deepest part of the seat with your stirrups at the right length, you should be able to fit about four fingers (the width of your hand) between your butt and the top of the cantle.
If you can barely fit two fingers, the seat is too small. If you can fit a whole hand and then some, you're probably going to be sliding around, which makes it really hard to maintain a solid leg position. In a Western saddle, you usually want about an inch or two of space between your thighs and the swell. You don't want to feel "locked in" unless you're doing something high-intensity like barrel racing where that extra security is a choice.
Brand differences and seat depth
Here is where it gets a little annoying: not all 17-inch saddles are created equal. A "deep seat" dressage saddle is going to feel much smaller than a "flat" jump saddle, even if they measure exactly the same from the nail to the cantle. Because the deep seat has more padding and a steeper rise in the back, it pushes you forward more.
Also, different brands have different "twists." The twist is the part of the saddle you grip with your inner thighs. A narrow twist feels very different from a wide one. If you have narrow hips, a wide twist might make a 17-inch seat feel huge and uncomfortable, whereas a narrow twist makes it feel just right. This is why measuring is a great starting point, but you really have to sit in the thing before you commit.
Common mistakes to avoid
One of the biggest blunders people make when learning how to measure saddle seat is measuring the padding rather than the structure. Don't measure from the very front of the pommel; you have to find that nail/stud. That's the consistent anchor point manufacturers use.
Another mistake is ignoring the flap. If you're tall, you might find a saddle where the seat size is technically correct, but the flaps are too short or angled wrong for your leg. For English riders, if your knee is poking off the leather, the saddle doesn't fit you, regardless of what the seat measurement says.
Lastly, don't forget that your clothes matter! If you measure yourself while wearing baggy sweatpants and then try to ride in thick winter breeches or heavy denim, the fit will change. Always try to measure or test a saddle in the gear you actually plan to ride in.
Wrapping it up
At the end of the day, knowing how to measure saddle seat dimensions is half science and half "feel." The tape measure gives you the ballpark, but your body tells you the truth. If you're between sizes, it's almost always better to go slightly larger than slightly smaller. A slightly large seat can be fixed with a seat saver or just a bit of balance, but a seat that's too small will actively work against your riding posture and can even cause sore spots for your horse because your weight won't be distributed correctly.
Take your time, measure twice just to be sure, and don't be afraid to try out a few different styles. Once you find that "Goldilocks" fit, your riding—and your horse—will definitely thank you.